Rambling in Japan and Cruising Across the Pacific 2005

Kyoto/Nara - Sunday

We're definitely making it a habit - we got up again at 6 am. Once again a glorious day, even warmer - I'd guess at about 23 degrees C in the afternoon. We got on the slow train to Nara leaving at 7:47 am to the second and arrived an hour later. I'd venture that the Japan Railways is the most efficient and cleanest railway system in the world. Train announcements are made in English as well as Japanese. Making it very easy to navigate, the name of the next station and an arrow is clearly written on each station in Romanji as well as Kanji.

It's an urban sprawl between Kyoto and Nara but the villages look prosperous and attractive with blossoming trees and spring flowers tucked in randomly between the houses. It's strange to see TV antennas on the roofs and even stranger to see satellite dishes attached to them - I don't understand the redundancy. Some towns give the appearance of being more affluent than others with the majority of houses topped with temple style tile roofs. An elderly (that means older than us) couple elegantly attired in stylish hiking outfits - she in purple and he in a forest green, with hiking boots, Tilly hats, day packs and carrying retractible poles, waved and smiled at us as they got off the train as if to say "Welcome to our country". Mature ladies in kimonas and obis delicately maneuvered their way aboard, speaking in modulated voices and using a minimum of movement. A large group of what I'd guess were cadets went from car to car filling seats. Spotlessly dressed and groomed, they behaved admirably despite being young males around puberty.

It was early Sunday morning when we arrived in Nara and a few shopkeepers were sweeping and washing the sidewalks and starting to roll up their awnings. We'd occasionally get a 'Ohayo gozaimass' - good morning and we'd nod and smile unsure of our pronounciation.

Nara is laid out on a grid (unusual for Japan) and we headed uphill to Nara Park, luckily passing a just-opened tourist info bureau. The gentleman (and I don't use the term loosely - I would never call Japanese males anything else) behind the counter drew out a walking tour for us and sent us on our way with maps and brochures warning us of the large herd of tame deer (shika) we'd encounter running loose. They are considered "messengers of the Gods" and they receive the utmost respect and care.

The Kofuku-ji has 2 pagodas - a three tiered one and a five tiered one which is the second tallest in the country - Kyoto's To-ji is taller by a couple of inches. This is where we first encountered the shika. Vendors were selling shika snacks, so no wonder they were so tame. We of course had to join in the custom and the shika soon pursued us relentlessly.

Through the Torii (gates to a shrine) and up into the forest - sparsely treed and no undergrowth and 1000 shika. Being Sunday, families were starting to arrive en-masse, souvenir and snack stands were ready to satisfy their needs. Through Nandai-mon, a large gate containing 2 huge fierce-looking wooden warriors, Todai-ji lied ahead, an enormous hall which from a distance somehow reminded me of the Taj Mahal - don't ask me why - probably the immensity and the awe it struck. It contained a massive bronze Buddha, the world's largest bronze Buddha image. Behind it is a large pole with a hole through it at the base. If you can squeeze through it, you'll achieve Nirvana. Well after watching a tiny Japanese woman get stuck, I realized I'd have to find some other way.

A further climb uphill to two halls with a panoramic view of Nara, but of course the smog muddied the vista. All the steps made me think of the Sacred Valley in Peru. I guess they were all trying to get closer to the heavens when they built their places of worship. Unlike Peru, there was no lack of oxygen and climbing was easy. By the time we completed our walking circuit, my nasty shoes had rubbed yesterday's blisters off and my feet were bleeding. I was in agony, but I'll not let that stop me no matter what Fernie says. He accuses me of 'overdoing it' but will I ever set foot here again?

We did try some interesting snacks in our circuit - trouble is I don't know what we were eating - some little deep-fried balls that were shrimp maybe? some potato concoction, some strange looking veggie pancakes and our stand by drinks - Pocari Sweat an CC Lemon.

Took the fast train back to Kyoto - 45 minutes this time and we were back in our hotel at 2:45. We do love the JR passes! While soaking my aching feet in the tub, Fernie had made me tea and scones from the bakery and after an hour siesta I painfully squeezed my feet back into my shoes having first padded and bandaged them. Oh how I wish I had my hiking boots with me.

We took the subway to the Higashayama / Gion area (230 yen/each) and meandered along the narrow curving crazy-paved lanes, the ancient buildings holding pricey restaurants and galleries. Not a noodle house or a conveyor sushi restaurant to be found. Long flights of stone steps eventually led us up to Kyomizu-dera and we were just in time to see the sun setting and the twilight view of Kyoto's skyline - the Kyoto Tower standing out clearly. Only just there and the police called up for us to come down (I think) - they were closing the area off for the night. It was a long walk back down and up to the subway and I quietly suffered my painful feet. It's not that I'm stoic but I didn't want to hear any 'I told you so's'

Stopping for dinner in a little cafe, Fernie ordered me two cold sakes as a painkiller and sedative while he stuck to his trusty beer. The sake did the trick. I had a rice and tempura dish and Fernie (what else?) a noodle and stuff in soup concoction. The drinks and the long day made for exhaustion and when we got to our room, just time for tea, a shower and lights out at 10 pm.

posted by O'Leary @ 10:00 PM