Sunday, May 08, 2005

Glacier Bay - Sunday

As we swung around from Icy Strait towards Bartlett Cove, the wide expanse of the bay was riddled with circling currents giving it the look of a vast ice rink. Swarming flocks of shrieking gulls skimmed the rippling waters which must have offered a feast of fish.

The sun glinted off the towering peaks, their craggy ridges silouetted against an azure sky. In the serene waters of the quiet cove, a boat pulled up alongside on portside and disgorged several National Park Rangers who were to remain with us the rest of the day. Along the waters edge, deciduous trees mixed in among the predominant evergreens punched out a medley of colour.

A relaxed three hour journey took us to the top of Glacier Bay and Marjarie Glacier. Harbour seals frolicked, kittiwakes soared and glided on the ship-induced breezes and there was not another ship or boat to be seen - we were the first of the season. The decadence of sitting on our balcony munching on freshly-made pizza and sipping vodka tonics while watching the amazing scene slide by was not lost on me. Can life be better than moments like this?

Up on the top deck (there are 18 in all) the 360 degree vista drew the hordes. Just below around the pool, a mass of bare legs and tummies and chests stretched out in their loung chairs, getting an early start on tanning. The National Park rangers did a running commentary over the intercom about the flora and fauna, the history of the area and glacier facts and fallacies. There was no bingo, no casino open, no shops open and the internet was not available - out of the satellite line of sight, I guess. Only a movie was offered for those uninspired by nature at its finest.

The ship lingered at Marjarie Glacier for an hour turning slowly to allow views from all angles. On the way back down, a few side trips into glacial coves made the journey back a little slower. The ranger reiterated several times how extremely lucky we were to have the sunshine, calm seas, expansive views and the ability to visit Johns Hopkins which is usually closed off at this time of the year.

Later that night- after midnight, after seeing a wonderful pianist/singer/fiddler (best of cruise, I'd say), and watching the traditional champagne waterfall - a bit of a yawn but fun with all the balloons and streamers, we took a couple of glasses of bubbly out onto our balcony. The sky was black and stars radiant and as our eyes adjusted, we saw the silouettes of land so very close. The air was as warm as a summer's evening, and we could hear strange bird calls seeming to be disturbed by our almost silent glide through their normally (after a long winter) quiet seas.

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